Birding with Ram Gopalakrishnan: Devkyara: Garden of the Gods

The honking of vehicles at Dehra Dun and typical hill station traffic jams at Mussoorie had left us with frazzled nerves when we checked in at Mori camp on the bank of the river Tons. A hot cup of tea and clear Himalayan air soothed our nerves: we were greeted by the usual waterside suspects, a plumbeous redstart and a blue whistling-thrush. A crested kingfisher and several red-billed blue magpies promised even better in the five days of trekking to follow.

My wife Meenakshi, daughter Rasika and I were on a five day trek to the remote Obra river valley of the Garhwal Himalayas, and hoped to fit in some birding en route. We started with the obligatory stop to seek blessings at the ancient temple at Mori, with Himalayan vultures lazily circling overhead. Then followed a stop at a stream to inspect a water mill: a spotted forktail and a paradise flycatcher with its long white streamers were bonuses.

The British left behind many impressive things when they left India but the widespread pine forestry practice in the lower and middle Himalayas was not one of them. Much like eucalyptus in South India, this rapidly growing alien absorbs much water and creates an acidic soil which allows few native slower growing species like oak to grow. The resultant monoculture may look pretty but actually is detrimental to the wildlife and birdlife, of which there was little evidence wherever pine stands were.

Our afternoon was filled by the high adrenaline of white water rafting on the river Tons at the surprisingly well organised and equipped outfitters at Mori. The Tons has excellent stretches of white water with levels of difficulty to suit both the beginner and the experienced. It was not easy to identify the lesser fish eagle overhead when you're paddling in frenzied manner and in dire danger of capsizing if you don't pay attention! The day ended with a prep talk around a bonfire, of the do's and don'ts of Himalayan trekking by our group leader Gaurav Punj, this being the first trek for many in our 14 member group.

Waking up in the Himalayas needs no alarm clock: the profusion of bird calls and early sunrise at 5 am ensures you can't really sleep in. A two hour drive took us to the Supin river: from there on blue sky, white Himalayan rapids and pristine forest were our constant companions as we commenced our trek and forked off upstream along the Obra. Himalayan griffons, about 15 of them, circled overhead and landed on top of a nearby cliff. A brown dipper rode the swift current in search of its meal, while the white-capped water redstart anxiously checked us out. We camped after a 5 km trek at 8800 feet: hot chai and samosas never tasted better.

The 10 km, 3000 foot climb the next day over rock and streams to the Bewa campsite over about 11 hours was tough! The dense vegetation gave way to juniper and rhododendron, and then glaciers on the montainsides with just scrub above the treeline. A hailstorm left us battered and the slopes treacherous with just the guide's hand to help us ford the landslides, streams and even a glacier. Like a wanderer in a desert who sights an oasis, the sight of our pitched tents at the end seemed truly a blessing from God. The altitude, rough terrain and slippery path had left us with more than just cramping calves and groaning glutes: a couple of us had dehydration and a few were in tears, given the sheer physical and mental stress. Even Rasika, a former National junior level swimmer who could clamber up slopes with ease, found the going tough. My wife Meenakshi who always has had ankle trouble and whose preparation for her first Himalayan trek was light yoga and walks in the neighbourhood, had a bad bout of vomiting and was ready to turn back. That she made it up was entirely a combination of her sheer mental strength and the sturdy guides Ramesh and Surendar who literally hand held her all the way up. Shabaash, good job, super, very nice...were their constant refrains, with "best of luck and thank you" thrown in for good measure!. "Doctor saab, aap tho bhagwan jaise" has been something I've listened to sceptically from patients over the years. On this trip, the guides were truly "bhagwan jaise" to Meenakshi.

But the view we awoke to the next morning at the Bewa campsite was amazing! Surrounded by glacier laden mountains on two sides, the north side towered over by the unclimbed snow clad Mount Ranglana, this amphitheater like plateau is near the origin of the Obra river. Northern ravens patrolled the tree-less mountainsides. Rhododendrons bloomed on the plateau. Green grass all over. In the early morning light it a surreal appearance: surely the most picturesque campsite in the world.

While some of us stayed back to rest for a day (same way back next two days!), we set off further up to the mythical Devkyara or Garden of the Gods. A stiff climb of another 2000 feet left us gasping and in dire danger of a heart attack at the high altitude. It was worth it! Just imagine: a grass plateau surrounded by snow clad peaks on three sides. A stream meanders into it and a marsh forms. Bright sunshine and blue sky above. Carpets of wild flowers all around. No wind, just the gentle lull of slowly flowing water. Surely devised by the gods for their own use. We rested there hypnotised for half an hour before commencing the steep descent that left us with quivering quads when we stumbled back to camp. With the rain tumbling down later in the day, a typical pattern in the Himalayas, the rest of the day was spent resting up for the marathon return ahead.

When you have screaming muscles and you're breathing about a 100 times a minute climbing up, it's rather tough to put your mind to birding or focus your binocs on a bird! Spotted and little forktails, Himalayan monals sighted twice in rapid flight downstream, slaty-headed parakeets, Northern ravens at the top, a Kalij pheasant and the congregation of resting Himalayan vultures on a crag were the best sightings among the 30 odds species I recorded on the trek.

Well, make it back we did, thanks to some improved weather, sheer grit on Meenakshi's part and of course the guides. At one point, so jelly-like and numb were her legs that Meenakshi insisted on just being rolled down the valley, rather than walk any more! As we stumbled back into our cars with strained muscles all over, dresses were a couple of sizes looser. So thankful to the gods (and the guides) was Meenakshi that she asked the guides for their favorite deity (Lord Shiva they said) and burst into a melodious devotional song for their benefit. Surely Lord Shiva must have smiled and danced in his garden above?

The Obra Valley trek had been an amazing audience with pristine Himalayan scenery and of course the highlight was the garden of the gods. For me it was a taxing endurance event and to finish it was an incredible high: for Meenakshi it was certainly the toughest thing she had done in several avatars!